Finding A Couple of Pearls Amongst the Oysters
It was a bit of a grey old day when we left Biarritz this morning. As I was waiting for Ross to bring the car round, a pigeon decided to have his toilet break in my hair. I’m sure it’s a good luck omen somewhere in the world? With another delicious breakfast under our belts, we buckled up and hit the road; our destination Arès, somewhere near Bordeaux. My cousin Adrian has a beautiful French wife, Candice and when I mentioned we were going to France, Candice insisted we look her parents up. We had met them once at Adrian and Candice’s wedding but didn’t know them well. I got in touch with Roselyne and mentioned we would be passing through and wondered whether they might like to catch up with us for a meal, or even just a coffee. She immediately responded and asked if we’d like to stay with them! I’d already organised accommodation but Roselyne said I should cancel it immediately and be the guests of she and her husband Dominique, which was so nice!
Arés is a little coastal town in south-western France that sits on the Arcachon Basin. It has a very laid back, country town holiday vibe. Dominique and Roselyne were there to welcome us with open arms and two-cheek-kisses as soon as we pulled into their driveway and as they opened their front door we felt like we were wandering into the pages of a Vogue Living magazine - it was just stunning! With an obvious flair from interior design, their fun, funky decor was popping with colour. Candice’s warm and welcoming parents have only been in this house for four years and explained that they love a good project and really enjoy decorating together. They should go into business - I’d hire them!
The garden was also a work of art, Dominique’s thumbs obviously a very deep shade of green. There were two white timber outdoor cabanas with colourful art, one with a big, red crab across its wall, around a Palm Springs inspired pool with brightly coloured pool furniture and an abundance of tropical blooms. Just gorgeous.
We were staying in their equally beautiful ‘guest house’ - in the garden - with its own little sitting room overlooking the garden and pool.
Roselyne speaks English very well but for Dominique, it’s a work in progress. We struck a deal that he could help me with my French and I could help him with his English - perfect! (or should I say parfait?) We had such a lovely time getting to know them and Roselyn had gone to so much trouble to prepare the most delicious lunch for us - a prawn, avocado and mango salad followed by a potato and bacon quiche with the crunchiest crust and homemade French custard for dessert. We were dined AND wined, Roselyne sharing with us the very wine that King Charles had enthusiastically imbibed and endorsed when he’d last been in Bordeaux. After partaking, I thoroughly concur with Chuck, it was indeed a good drop.
After lunch, Dominique became our chauffeur and he and Roselyne took us on a guided tour of their very beautiful neck of the woods. It was drizzling rain to start with but the clouds parted to reveal some blue and the sun made a welcome appearance to warm us all up. We stopped off to admire the basin and the little cove full of boats. Domininique explained that the basin is subject to extreme tides so there are times where it’s as if someone has pulled the plug and drained all the water from the bay. When we arrived, it was right on low tide so all the boats were marooned on the sand, no bobbing to be had at all. Later in the day, when the tide would swing back, he assured us they’d all be back to their bobbing little selves.
Salty, marshy and meadowy, with pine forests and unspoilt nature abounding, this pretty little peninsula also has a thriving oyster trade, with even an ATM for oysters!
Nearby town: L’Herb, on the Cap Ferret peninsula, was a hub for oyster farms and was a gorgeous little village set up right on the bay. It has housed the oyster farmers and their families for generations. As we wandered through the narrow paths between the weatherboard shacks with blue and green weather-worn shutters , grape vines and fishing nets overhead, and hand painted pots and baskets of geraniums tucked between, we snapped away, taking way too many photos. Dominique has a real talent for and love of photography so it was nice to share the experience with him too.
The shoreline was lined with shacks selling oysters to be enjoyed al fresco in waterside beer gardens strung with party lights. Most of them were closed for business when we were there but Ross, being the only oyster lover in our little quartet, was hankering to taste the local produce. Dominique pulled in a local favour and organised one of the farmers to give Ross a little tasting plate, fresh from the salt water and complete with sliced lemon. What a treat!
We continued up the length of the peninsula, stopping to walk around pretty main streets or gaze at beautiful views. The Chapelle de la Villa Algèrienne, built back in 1884, a big, bold, eye-catching candy striped church, directly on the sand overlooking the bay, was certainly not the kind of thing you see every day down at the beach. It had beautiful stained glass windows (and a killer view down the aisle).
Our last stop on the Rouer’s whirlwind tour was a visit to their favourite beach, Plage du Grand Crohot (which is incredibly tricky to pronounce without sounding like you’re clearing some phlegm from your throat!) There was a long wooden boardwalk leading through unspoilt dunes covered in waving sea grass down to the Atlantic Ocean. The wind had picked up substantially so that grass was waving pretty wildly and the sea was like a washing machine. Sunshine was just peeping through the clouds and beaming onto the sand, giving the beach an ethereal glow.
Tonight we ate the delicious left-overs from lunch and enjoyed each other’s company. We are so overwhelmed with Roselyne and Dominique’s warm hospitality and so grateful for such a great day!
